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The formation of spilling breaking water waves

 

作者: J. H. Duncan,   V. Philomin,   M. Behres,   J. Kimmel,  

 

期刊: Physics of Fluids  (AIP Available online 1994)
卷期: Volume 6, issue 8  

页码: 2558-2560

 

ISSN:1070-6631

 

年代: 1994

 

DOI:10.1063/1.868146

 

出版商: AIP

 

数据来源: AIP

 

摘要:

Photographs from high‐speed movies of the profiles of a mechanically generated, gentle spilling breaking water wave are presented. It is found that as the wave steepens a bulge forms on the forward face of the wave near the crest and capillary waves form on the water surface ahead of the ‘toe’ of the bulge (see Fig. 1). The toe of the bulge then moves rapidly down the forward face of the wave and a train of large‐amplitude waves with short wavelength grows rapidly on the surface of the bulge. These waves quickly break down into a random pattern indicating that the flow has become turbulent.

 

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