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On The Breaking Of Waves Arriving At An Angle To The Shore

 

作者: B. Le Méhauté,   R. C. Y. Koh,  

 

期刊: Journal of Hydraulic Research  (Taylor Available online 1967)
卷期: Volume 5, issue 1  

页码: 67-88

 

ISSN:0022-1686

 

年代: 1967

 

DOI:10.1080/00221686709500189

 

出版商: Taylor & Francis Group

 

数据来源: Taylor

 

摘要:

By using the method of conservation of energy flux between wave orthogonals, the breaking wave characteristics are obtained for waves travelling obliquely to the bottom contours of a straight shoreline. The results of the calculations are presented in the form of nomographs by using the linear and third order irrotational gravity wave theories. Three different breaking criteria are used in these calculations. In particular, a new breaking criterion is proposed for waves breaking on a gentle slope. Some calculations are also performed at the fifth order of approximation and the results compared with the linear and third order cases.

 

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