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Why ripples become sweiis, and swells in shallow water decay rapidly

 

作者: H. Naeser,  

 

期刊: Geophysical & Astrophysical Fluid Dynamics  (Taylor Available online 1979)
卷期: Volume 13, issue 1  

页码: 335-345

 

ISSN:0309-1929

 

年代: 1979

 

DOI:10.1080/03091927908243780

 

出版商: Taylor & Francis Group

 

数据来源: Taylor

 

摘要:

In an ocean with a horizontal bottom where no wind is blowing it is shown that the spin (angular momentum) of the ocean is conserved. Thus, when energy is dissipated, at least one of three things will happen: i) Wave spectra may move towards lower frequencies. ii) The directional distribution may be changed towards long-crested waves. iii) Shear currents may be generated. By neglecting ii) and iii), the frequency shift of a spectrum is calculated due to molecular dissipation. When all energy transforming phenomena as e.g. wave breaking and turbulence generation are taken into account, the conservation of spin seems to be able to explain the frequency shift of wave spectra. In shallow water it is shown that there is energy transfer from the waves to shear currents.

 

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