摘要:

SynopsisA method is described and evaluated for classifying sunscreen products into different broad spectrum categories. The method is based on spectrophotometric analysis of products applied to a suitable substrate and obviates the need for human or animal studies utilizing clinical endpoints which may be of dubious value in relation to protection from sun exposure. The absorbance spectrum obtained by spectrophotometric assay is reduced to a single index by determining that wavelength λcwhere the area under the spectrum from 290 nm (the approximate lower wavelength limit of terrestrial sunlight) to λcis 90% of the integral of the absorbance spectrum from 290 to 400 nm. A five‐point scale is used to classify products as follows:The method makes no underlying assumptions about the form of action spectra for either acute or chronic photobiological damage. However, acknowledgement is made of the fact that the efficiency of ultraviolet radiation to induce a given photobiological endpoint tends to decrease with increasing wavelength by adopting wavelength intervals for classifying theBroad Spectrum Ratingwhich increase in an approximately logarithmic man

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00082.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00083.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisThe adequacy of preservation of seven previously unopened commercial cosmetic products was tested by individual challenges withAspergillus nigerATCC 9642,Candida albicansATCC 10231,Escherichia coliATCC 8739,Pseudomonas aeruginosaATCC 15422, andStaphylococcus aureusATCC 6538, using the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) method. Each product was consecutively challenged three times, 28 days apart. Inoculated composite products were counted by conventional techniques at eight prefixed intervals. Six of seven cosmetics passed the CTFA acceptance criteria. On the basis of viable counts seven days after inoculation (CTFA criteria), the products were classified as follows: five products were well preserved, one was marginally preserved, and one was poorly preserved. The poorly preserved product failed the CTFA criteria for all three bacteria tested. Concentrations of preservative ingredients in uninoculated composites were determined by high performance liquid chromatography. All preservatives listed on the labels of the seven cosmetic products were identified by chemical analysis. Tentative in‐use validation of the CTFA criteria was performed for three of the seven cosmetic formulations. The results suggested that some cosmetic products may be underpreserve

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00084.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

RésuméLes pellicules, affection dermatologique due essentiellement à la levurePityrosporum ovale, affectent les deux tiers de la population, d'une manière plus ou moins sévére.Pour notre part, nous nous sommes attachés à mettre en évidence l'activité antifongique de deux substances couramment utilisées dans des cosmétiques capillaires: la pyrithione‐zinc et la piroctone olamine, à plusieurs concentrations. Une fois choisie, la concentration optimale, deux shampooings ont été formulés, afin de déterminer la tolérance cutanée des formes cosmétiques terminées. La tolérance cutanée a étéévaluée par étude profilométrique de contre‐empreintes obtenues à partir d'empreintes de peau.Cette étude nous révèle une supériorité de la piroctone olamine, aussi bien d'un point de vue activité antifongique

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00085.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisThe phase inversion emulsification is a convenient method of preparing fine‐disperse and long‐term stable oil‐in‐water emulsions, which are stabilized with nonionic emulsifiers. On the basis of EACN‐values (equivalent alkane carbon numbers) the calculation of phase inversion in concentrates (CAPICO) is possible, which yields emulsifier and oil mixing ratios corresponding to a given phase inversion temperature (PIT). The CAPICO‐method is illustrated for the example of a cosmetic oil‐in‐water lotion containing an oil mixture, glyceryl monostearate and a fatty alcohol ethoxylate. Of special interest is the influence of silicone oils on the PIT. At a constant emulsifier oil ratio the complete phase behaviour of this emulsion system is represented in a temperature/water content graph. Optimum emulsification results are obtained if during PIT emulsification a microemulsion or a lamellar phase is passed. The emulsions were characterized by particle sizing, and emulsion stability against sedimentation was evaluated by ultrasonic velocity changes. A fine‐disperse and long‐term stable oil‐in‐water emulsion was prepared by a time and energy‐saving

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00086.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY