摘要:

SynopsisOver the past 25 years the cosmetic industry has become increasingly technological. The origins of many of these advances were based upon chemical technology usually related to colloid science, although more recent developments have had clear biological improvements. A number of recent innovations are examined to consider how far developments in the future will stem from biotechnology rather than chemical technology.The working of surface active materials (e.g. CTAB) is discussed as an example of cosmetic effects being generated purely from chemical technology. The role of fluoride toothpaste in decreasing the incidence of dental caries is discussed as an effect based essentially on chemical technology in an area where future alternatives might come from biotechnology. Skin research is highlighted as the area where new understanding, e.g. of the role of epidermal growth factor (EGF), fibronectin and laminin, could lead to a whole new biotechnological approach to the appraisal of skin.As we venture into innovations based on biotechnology we may be introducing new dimensions in product safety which will need an even closer relationship with the medical fraternity. Consequently the introduction of products based on biotechnology may not be as rapid as is sometimes suggested.

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00360.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1984

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisThe ESR spectrum of hair presents a symmetrical absorption band with the same characteristics as pure melanin (g= 2.0030; δH= 5 G). Between 250°K and 490°K, the intensity of the signal increases as for pure melanin. This variation may be explained by a change in the moisture content of hair as function of the temperature. Below 250° K, in a frozen medium, melanin‐water interactions remain constant and the number of radicals is no longer a function of temperature.Under exposure to light of hair, melanin‐derived radicals were formed. Stable and short‐lived radicals were observed at λ>345 nm; only unstable radicals were formed at λ>450 nm. At shorter wavelengths (λ>280 nm), a new asymmetric signal (g= 2.0065H= 20 G) appeared on UV exposure of black, grey or white hair; this signal was attributed to radicals formed in the direct excitation of keratin amino acids.Le spectre RP

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00361.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1984

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisTwo hundred and thirty‐two products used in the skin care of babies were examined for bacterial contamination. Contamination rates were compared between unused samples collected from homes, those used in the home, and those used in the maternity wards of a local hospital. Products used and unused, originating from the home had a low incidence of contamination and small bacterial populations. One product used in hospital was found to be susceptible to contamination; several samples were contaminated with Gram‐negative rods. The significance of these contaminants in products used on babies is discussed and proposals are put forward for avoiding in‐use contamination.Contamination bactérienne des produits utilisés pour les soin de la peau d

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00362.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1984

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisThe effect of aqueous solutions of 2‐hydroxyacids of chain length C3to C10on the extensibility of undamaged and solvent‐damaged guinea‐pig footpad stratum corneum has been studied. The increase in extensibility of solvent‐damaged corneum, caused by treatment with hydroxyacid, reached a maximum with 2‐hydroxycaprylic acid (C8); on undamaged corneum, 2‐hydroxycaprylic acid was the only hydroxyacid studied to give a significant effect. The increase in corneum extensibility produced by 2‐hydroxyacids decreases when the pH is raised from 3 to 4. This loss of effect correlates with the ionization of the hydroxyacid (pK˜ 3.85).The binding of radiolabelled 2‐hydroxycaproic (C6) and 2‐hydroxycaprylic acids to stratum corneum has been studied. 2‐Hydroxycaprylic acid binds much more strongly than 2‐hydroxycaproic acid, the difference in the binding being consistent with the hydrophobic binding energy of two methylene groups. Raising the pH above 3.5 results in a large decrease in the binding of 2‐hydroxycaprylic acid in line with the corresponding reduction in extensibility.Treatment with 2‐hydroxyacids results in a small increase in the water‐binding capacity of solvent‐damaged stratum corneum, but in adecreasein the water‐binding capacity of undamaged stratum corneum. These data are discussed in terms of a possible mechanism for the plasticizing of stratum corneum.Effet des 2‐hydroxyacides sur la couche cor

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00363.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1984

数据来源: WILEY

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1984.tb00364.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1984

数据来源: WILEY