摘要:

SynopsisThe aim of this work was to verify if a close relationship exists between the physical stability of an emulsion and the chemical stability of vitamin A palmitate included in it. Oil‐in‐water cosmetic emulsions with high viscoelastic properties were prepared, and their rheological behaviour was investigated in oscillatory conditions. The stability of each sample was verified in high‐temperature stress conditions: periodical checks of physical parameters and chromatographic analysis of vitamin A were performed during storage. Results show that the chemical stability of vitamin A palmitate strictly depends on the physical stability of the formulation and in particular on the presence of a coherent gel‐like structure in the external phase of the e

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00092.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisThe effects of Vittel water on the proliferation of fibroblasts, proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes from human origin were studied. To determine the relative importance of calcium and other elements of the mineral water, cultures were raised in a low‐calcium medium (low‐Ca medium), in a medium prepared with Vittel water (Vittel medium) and in a medium containing an identical calcium concentration to that of Vittel medium (Ca medium). The fibroblasts and keratinocytes were cultured in immersion for proliferation assays and on a reconstructed epidermis at the air‐liquid interface to evaluate keratinocyte differentiation. Vittel medium decreased proliferation of keratinocytes when compared to low‐Ca medium. The effect was similar to that of Ca medium at the beginning of the experiment, but significantly higher at day 7. A stratified epithelium appeared with the three types of media when keratinocytes were incubated at the air‐liquid interface; however the number of sheets was more regular and greater in Vittel medium and Ca medium than in low‐Ca medium. Filaggrin and transglutaminase expression appeared earlier with Vittel medium than with the other media. After 2 weeks, expression of markers was similar in the three media. After 3 weeks culture in Vittel medium, there was a greater expression of filaggrin. Proliferation of young fibroblasts was significantly higher in Vittel medium than in Ca medium. It was lower in low‐ Ca medium. With old fibroblasts the degree of proliferation was lower than with young fibroblasts. The augmentation of proliferation happen earlier in Vittel medium than in low‐Ca medium and Ca medium. Vittel medium regulated the growth rate of old fibroblasts, rendering it identical to that of young fibroblasts in low‐Ca medium. The effects of Vittel water were not linked to the sole presence of calcium since, with medium at an equimolecular concentration in calcium, the medium containing Vittel water had a better activity. One explanation of these effects of Vittel water might be the pres

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00093.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

RésuméUne étude a été réalisée sur trois émulsions eau dans huile et leurs phases grasses respectives, vaseline, huile de paraffine et huile d'amande douce, en vue de comparer leurs propriétés occlusives et par voie de conséquence leur influence sur l'hydratation cutanée. Une méthodein vitroutilisant des cellules de type ‘Patel’a permis dans un premier temps de classer les différentes émulsions et leurs phases grasses‐en fonction de leur perméabilitéà la vapeur d'eau, ce qui conduit par ordre croissant de degré d'occlusion à: huile d'amande douce, huile de paraffine et vaseline. Pour les étudesin vivochez l'homme, l'influence de l'application des mêmes substances sur la perte insensible d'eau (PIE) et l'hydratation cutanée a été mesurée avec un évaporimètre et un cornéomètre. Les différentes phases grasses, utilisées pures, augmentent l'hydratation par effet occlusif, ce phénomène étant objectivé par les mesures de PIE. Par contre pour les émulsions correspondantes, il semblerait que l'augmentation de l'hydratation ne

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00094.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisMaterials and methods for the synthesis of eight quaternary ammonium bromides of 5‐[4‐(ω‐dialkylaminoalkoxy)phenylmethylene]‐1,3,‐trimethyl‐2‐oxabicyclo[2.2.2]octan‐6‐ones are illustrated. They were routinely prepared starting from cineole aminoethers by reaction with primary alkyl bromides and their physico‐chemical data are reported. These substances have been tested for UV filtering and/or microbiological activity. The substances have their UV absorption maxima at 315–322 nm. Tests on antimicrobial activity were performed using benzalkonium chloride as reference standard. All quaternary ammonium bromides were totally inactive againstEscherichia coli(Gram —) and partially active onStaphylococcus aureus(Gram +). These preliminary findings seem to indicate that these new quaternary ammonium bromides could be considered as

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1994.tb00095.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1994

数据来源: WILEY