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1. |
Absorption of materials by or through the living skin |
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science,
Volume 7,
Issue 3,
1985,
Page 103-115
J. HADGRAFT,
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摘要:
SynopsisThe skin comes into contact with a large range of materials either deliberately or inadvertently. It should be possible to predict the exact transport rates of these materials through the skin as a function of the physicochemical properties of the different compounds. With this sort of knowledge it is possible to predict the exact disposition of compounds and use this in the formulation of new products both in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic field. The information will also be useful from the standpoint of skin toxicology and environmental health. In order to be able to predict this complex process it is necessary to split the overall transport into different component parts. This article will identify these components and provide illustrations. The major areas discussed will be barrier function of the skin, the release properties of different topical formulations and how these may be monitored. Novel means of enhancing the penetration of drugs will be discussed and how some additives that are incorporated into formulations will perhaps alter the barrier function of skin. A mathematical model describing skin penetration has been developed and its use in predicting blood levels will be described. This model has been tested both in animal experiments and in limited human studies and its relevance to these situations will be highlighted.Absorption cutanée et transcutanée in vi
ISSN:0142-5463
DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00402.x
出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd
年代:1985
数据来源: WILEY
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2. |
Evaluation of anti‐wrinkle effects on humans |
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science,
Volume 7,
Issue 3,
1985,
Page 117-126
P. CORCUFF,
F. CHATENAY,
A. BRUN,
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摘要:
SynopsisImage analysis provides a practical method for studying the cutaneous relief and better understanding of the formation of wrinkles during ageing and their regression induced by an anti‐wrinkle product. Quantimet 900° allows a fully automated analysis of 40 replicas of skin surface per cycle of 6 h. The basic principle consists of measuring shadows, generated by incident lighting at the surface of Silflo replicas. Incident light of 38° was selected for analysing crow's feet wrinkles and 26° for the microrelief when crow's feet were absent (slight furrows less than 50 μ‐m). The following parameters were recorded: the number of wrinkles, their mean depth, and the coefficient of developed skin surface (CDSS).An O/W emulsion containing 30% biological ingredients was applied daily on the face of 140 female subjects, aged from 20 to 57 years, during 4 weeks. Replicas were made before the first application (t0) and 24 h after the last one (t0). Data obtained with the image analysis method showed a decrease in number and depth of crow's feet fromt0, tot4of 16% and a sharp decrease of the CDSS (30%). No modification of the microrelief was observed. These results were confirmed by measuring forehead casts with the Anaglyphographc® apparatus (a profilometric method) on the same subjects: a decrease of 40% in number and 23% in depth were recorded for the forehead wrinkles, with no modification of the microrelief.Both image analysis and profilometry measured the effects provoked by this treatment. The CDSS, which might measure the reservoir of extensibility of the surface of the skin, should be the best parameter to demonstrate the efficiency of anti‐wrinkle products.Evaluation des effets anti‐rides
ISSN:0142-5463
DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00403.x
出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd
年代:1985
数据来源: WILEY
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3. |
Use of microemulsions as vehicles for nucleophilic reagents in cosmetic formulations |
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science,
Volume 7,
Issue 3,
1985,
Page 127-141
J. L. PARRA,
J. J. GARCÍA DOMÍNGUEZ,
F. COMELLES,
J. SÄNCHEZ,
C. SOLANS,
C. PELEJERO,
F. BALAGUER,
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摘要:
SynopsisThe modifications of chemical reactivity induced in the human hair during its treatment with oxidative (H2O2) or reductive (HSO3Na) agents via a micellar or a microemulsion system have been investigated. For this purpose, phase diagrams of micellar solutions and microcmulsions with H2O2or NaSO3H have been made in order to find out the corresponding areas of solubility. The properties of conductivity, surface tension and light scattering of various monophasic compositions as a function of their water content, have been studied.As a result of the chemical reactivity data of human hair obtained through the reaction of H2O2or HSO3Na via a micellar or a microemulsion system, it appears reasonable to predict a more effective reaction of such agents with cystine residues existing in keratinic substrates, particularly when they are applied via a microemulsion. The decrease of the water content of the compositions considered, increases chemical reactivity of the keratinic proteins favouring the formation of cysteine and of cysteic acid in the reductive or oxidative treatments respectively.
ISSN:0142-5463
DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00404.x
出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd
年代:1985
数据来源: WILEY
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4. |
Book Review |
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science,
Volume 7,
Issue 3,
1985,
Page 143-143
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摘要:
Book Reviewed in this article:Diseases of the Nails and their Management R. Baran and R. P. R. Dawber (eds). Blackwell Scientific Publications, Oxford, 1984. Pp
ISSN:0142-5463
DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00405.x
出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd
年代:1985
数据来源: WILEY
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5. |
Announcements |
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International Journal of Cosmetic Science,
Volume 7,
Issue 3,
1985,
Page 145-148
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PDF (192KB)
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ISSN:0142-5463
DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00406.x
出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd
年代:1985
数据来源: WILEY
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