摘要:

SynopsisThe review critically evaluates the safety and effectiveness of proteins or peptides in cosmetic formulations designed for skin and hair care. Special attention is paid to soluble collagen and the use of this fibrillar protein in combination with detergents.The authors indicate various misconceptions on the mechanism of the effect of collagen and possible risks if the formulations containing collagen are not used on intact skin. Besides the moisturizing effect of collagen on the stratum corneum, the formation of a protective layer on the surface of the skin or hair, and the formation of complexes with detergents and the mechanisms of the effectiveness of this protein are considered.Le role des proteines dans les cosmetiques

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00395.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1985

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisA new device using a torsional technique has been developed to record the biomechanical properties of the skin.After determination of the optimal experimental conditions, effects of cosmetic products on the stratum corneum biomechanical properties are described.

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00396.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1985

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisBenzoyl peroxide has been used for over 20 years to treat youthful acne. The aim of this study is to determine its release rate from the vehicle that allows it to reach and treat the skin (topical availability) and its ability to pass through the skin and reach the general circulation (bioavailability), in order to bring about good topical availability, linked to bioavailability or, an ‘abioavailability'.Three preparations containing 10% of benzoyl peroxide were administered to the back of shaven New Zealand rabbits. At day 0, day 5, day 12, day 19, day 26 and day 33, the topical effects were measured by cutaneous temperature, degree of erythema and the benzoic acid plasma record card, which shows blood sample results of the metabolism of the drug.The results obtained show that the topical availability of benzoyl peroxide coincides with a decrease in cutaneous temperature, after application in various dosage forms, in spite of the appearance of a marked erythema.The bioavailability is demonstrated by plasma benzoic acid evaluation. Before administration, benzoic acid levels are low but increase half an hour after administration, to reach a maximal level at 3 h.Benzoyl peroxide metabolizes quickly and does not seem to be able to cross the skin without being changed.Disponibilité topique et biodisponibilité du péroxyde de ben

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00397.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1985

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisSubstantivity of various125I‐labelled collagen hydrolysates to virgin or bleached and dyed European hair or human callus was tested under conditions which simulated actual application of such hydrolysates in shampoos or foam baths. Factors which most strongly influence protein substantivity were identified. The molecular properties of the hydrolysate are the most important factor. The hydrolysate which adsorbed best had the lowest overall isoelectric point, the highest pH in solution and the largest content of high molecular weight peptides. The extent of adsorption was also a function of concentration of protein, of the duration of application and of the nature of the components of the formulation. Thus, the combination of shampoo and hydrolysate can be adjusted so that a desired substantivity is attaine

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00398.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1985

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SynopsisThe relationships between physical attractiveness, cosmetic practices and self‐perception were examined in elderly females. Sixteen individuals of high and 16 of low attractiveness were evaluated with regard to ‘how they saw themselves’in terms of their behaviour, attitude, appearance, etc., and some aspects of their utilization of cosmetics.The attractive evaluated themselves more highly than the unattractive on an overall measure of self‐perception, and they rated themselves more highly on a number of importantindividualdimensions of self‐perception: they perceived themselves as being healthier, with a greater feeling of wellbeing, as having a more positive outlook on life; as being more cheerful/less depressed, and better adjusted; they registered greater satisfaction with their lives; were more socially engaged; and more realistic.Attractiveness did not appear to be correlated with the aspects of cosmetic practices examined. The physically attractive and unattractive did not differ significantly with respect to cosmetic usage (frequency and number of products), attitude towards cosmetics, history of cosmetic care, or difference between their cosmetic and basic attractiveness.Since our previous research1on this subject sample has shown that the unattractive elderly benefit from cosmetic therapy more than the attractive ‐ not only in terms of appearance but psychologically ‐ it is suggested that explicit training ineffectivecosmetic usage as used in cosmetic therapy programmes could help to bridge the psychological gap between the handsome and unhandsome elderly and reduce discrimination against the unhan

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00399.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1985

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

Book Reviewed in this article:Colours for Cosmetics (2nd edition). By the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft, Commission des Colorants. EdHandbook of U.S. colorants for Foods, Drugs and Cosmetics(2nd Edition)Complete Hairdressing Science by O. F. G. Kilgour and M. McGarry. Heinemann, London, 1984, Pp

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00400.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1985

数据来源: WILEY

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1985.tb00401.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1985

数据来源: WILEY