摘要:

SummaryIn this study the moisturization of the stratum corneum was assessed using a non‐invasive and non‐destructivein vivomethod, i.e., Fourier Transform Infra Red spectroscopy. First, the values of absorption band integrations were recorded for the non‐treated skin. Next, the results after application of various cosmetic preparations were reported and correlated with corneometric fin

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00104.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1995

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SummaryAn acrylic/alkyl acrylate co‐polymer and a mixture of non‐ionic surfactants (sorbitan monostearate and sorbitan monostearate(20)OE) were used to prepare o/w emulsions for cosmetic use. Formulations with optimal performances were obtained by selecting appropriate percentages of components through statistical procedures. The non‐polymeric surfactants were seen to affect the stability and appearance of the emulsion, although they were used at low percentages (0.3–0.6%), and were seen to interact with the polymer in different ways. The influence of twelve w/o emulsifiers (alcohol‐, glyceryl‐ and sorbitan‐derivatives) on the emulsion was examined and models of stability and thixotropic module were calculated: the thixotropic behaviour of the emulsion depended on the structural characteristics of hydrophilic and hydrophobic moieties of the w/o surfac

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00105.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1995

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

SummaryThe predictable toxic effects of some surfactants, their blends and some preserving agents on human fibroblast cultures were investigated within vitrotests, with the aim of finding a possible correlation between the biologic evaluations and some physical characteristics of detergent solutions. Lactate dehydrogenase release into the medium was used as a marker of the plasma membrane integrity, while the amount of3H‐radiolabelled proteins in the fibroblasts was measured in order to assess the cell biosynthetic machinery function. Disodium‐alkyl‐semi‐sulphosuccinate induced membrane damage in the lactate dehydrogenase test and decreased the protein synthesis, with an EC 50 around 1mm, while sodium lauryl ether sulphate had an EC 50 at about 100 μm, indicating that this compound is ten‐fold more toxic, when measured by this method. An ethoxylated glyceride, on the contrary, was completely harmless on the plasma membrane and, surprisingly, activated fibroblast protein synthesis in a dose‐response way up to two‐fold. Mixtures of the three surfactants evidenced the protective effect of the non‐ionic against the cellular functionality damage. Parabens do not influence this type of evaluation, while some influence was shown by the formaldehyde releaser 2‐bromo‐2‐nitro‐propandiol at the highest concentration. The comparison between critical micellar concentration measures of the different surfactants and theirin vitrodetected irritative power shows, for the two anionics, thatin vitrotoxicity is proportionally bound to the amount of micelles even if the structural differences between the two types of molecules are reflected into different damage values, while the non‐ionic compound shows a not defined CMC and a very low toxicity profile. Blends of anionics with the non‐ionic show an increased CMC and a reduced toxicity profile. Toxicity evaluations of complex finished foaming formulations, carried out with human fibroblast cultures evaluation show that a relationship between micelles amount and cell toxicity seems to exist, mainly when multiple s

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00106.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1995

数据来源: WILEY

ISSN:0142-5463    

DOI:10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00107.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1995

数据来源: WILEY