摘要:

This paper reviews market developments in the 1990s and the challenges that these present to chemical pretreatment, dyeing, printing, and chemical and mechanical finishing. The globalisation of textiles and the driving forces for change are discussed in relation to fibre developments, quality with quick response, the philosophy of right‐first‐time processing and energy costs. A major challenge to all textile wet processing is posed by the problems generated by environmental issues and many of the current developments in this field are described. A detailed study is presented of the likely effects of market development in the specific areas of chemical pretreatment, dyeing, printing, and chemical and mechanical finishing, together with the challenges and changes that they will create. Some current and future paths to progress through research and development are discussed that will influence the evolution of chemical technology and revolutionise wet‐processing treatments up to the year

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00084.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

In recent years legislation on environmental pollution has become more and more stringent. The parameter AOX (adsorbable organic halogen) was developed for the detection of organohalogens in drinking water and effluents. In this paper restrictions on the discharge of various chemicals into waste water are reviewed. In the first part of the paper a survey on the history of AOX and the associated legislation is presented. The second part summarises the work that has been done on bleaching of cellulose pulp and focuses on AOX generation in cotton and wool finishing.

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00085.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

Ink jet printers, some capable of producing a full colour gamut, are now widely used as output devices for computer‐generated design work. Some advances have been made in the application of these ink jet paper printing technologies to textile printing, mainly for carpets. This review describes the principal jet systems that have been developed commercially for both textile and reprographic uses, and indicates areas in which the ink jet principle appears to have future potential. The physical and chemical requirements of the inks used in the different systems, as well as the possible pretreatment of the substrate to improve ink receptivity and the durability of the print, are also discusse

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00086.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

Durable‐press finishing agents that neither contain nor release formaldehyde when applied to cotton fabrics are reviewed and compared with conventionalN‐methylolamides in regard to fabric wrinkle resistance, smooth drying properties, strength retention and yellowing imparted. The need for agents that are not derived from formaldehyde results from international recognition that formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen. When formaldehyde‐free cellulose crosslinking agents are screened to eliminate those having toxicity, odour and environmental problems of their own, the most likely candidates are seen to be polycarboxylic acids and 1,3‐dimethyl‐4, 5‐dihydroxy‐ethyleneurea (also known as DHDMI). These differ in cost and effectiveness, and will require further research and development to become fu

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00087.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

Metamerism can add an additional dimension to colour control systems. Different aspects of metamerism have been studied and discussed by many researchers. Computerised colorant formulations normally predict low metameric recipes, but the reliability of present measures of metamerism may be questionable as fresh aspects of colour appearance have been recently described. Chromatic adaptation and colour constancy are related phenomena. Studies in these fields are reviewed in this paper, which hopefully will encourage researchers to find a new and more effective measure of metamerism.

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00088.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

Industries throughout the world are being compelled into reviewing their manufacturing processes and disposal techniques because of the implementation of stricter regulations by local and national governments. This paper will attempt to outline some of the areas of concern regarding flame‐retardant textiles and highlight areas that require stricter control. In considering a full environmental audit of any chosen flame‐retardant textile, comparisons between competing products are neither simple nor, at present, possible. Environmental audits for current flame‐retardant finished cotton and inherently flame‐retardant polyester are undertaken and compared in order to illustrate this complexity. Any given product appears to have a similar environmental impact to others of the same gener

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00089.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

This review provides a summary of research on the penetration of dyes into natural fibres. Emphasis is placed on the relationship between diffusion and the structural morphology of the fibres. The types of commonly dyed natural fibres, the methods of measurement of diffusion and the data that have been collected by the use of each method are reviewed. The applicability of general theories of dyeing to natural fibres is also examined. Recent developments that have led to the direct observation of penetration pathways in wool fibres are described, together with the insights obtained into diffusion phenomena. Areas for future work are briefly indicated.

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00090.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY

摘要:

Degumming of silk involves the cleavage of peptide bonds of sericin, either by hydrolytic or enzymatic methods, and the subsequent removal of sericin from the silk fibroin. Hydrolysis of sericin can be carried out under neutral, alkaline or acidic conditions to give four fractions, each having different properties. Boiling‐off in alkaline soap solution is the most popular degumming method. There are many qualitative methods of assessing the extent of degumming; however, quantitative methods have yet to be developed. Degumming can be carried out on yarn or fabric, in manually or mechanically operated machines. Mechanisms of degumming remain to be investigate

ISSN:0557-9325    

DOI:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1992.tb00091.x

出版商:Blackwell Publishing Ltd    

年代:1992

数据来源: WILEY