This paper reviews market developments in the 1990s and the challenges that these present to chemical pretreatment, dyeing, printing, and chemical and mechanical finishing. The globalisation of textiles and the driving forces for change are discussed in relation to fibre developments, quality with quick response, the philosophy of right‐first‐time processing and energy costs. A major challenge to all textile wet processing is posed by the problems generated by environmental issues and many of the current developments in this field are described. A detailed study is presented of the likely effects of market development in the specific areas of chemical pretreatment, dyeing, printing, and chemical and mechanical finishing, together with the challenges and changes that they will create. Some current and future paths to progress through research and development are discussed that will influence the evolution of chemical technology and revolutionise wet‐processing treatments up to the year