Physical approach of propagation phenomena and action of regular and breaking waves
作者:
J. L. J. Marchal,
期刊:
Journal of Hydraulic Research
(Taylor Available online 1988)
卷期:
Volume 26,
issue 2
页码: 159-178
ISSN:0022-1686
年代: 1988
DOI:10.1080/00221688809499223
出版商: Taylor & Francis Group
数据来源: Taylor
摘要:
We think that to progress in the mechanism of regular and breaking wave propagation, it is necessary to realize more physical studies from which only coherent theories can be established. This method is applied in the paper. We explain in this way the physical meaning of the regular wave propagation but also the complex mechanism of their breaking shape even over an horizontal or inclined bottom. We present interesting results concerning breaking wave sollicitations on vertical breakwaters and we compare their free surface shapes with the corresponding profiles obtained in our laboratory. We propose here a fundamental study which is defining important computation possibilities of complex phenomena like the regular and breaking wave action on fixed structures.
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