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Physical approach of propagation phenomena and action of regular and breaking waves

 

作者: J. L. J. Marchal,  

 

期刊: Journal of Hydraulic Research  (Taylor Available online 1988)
卷期: Volume 26, issue 2  

页码: 159-178

 

ISSN:0022-1686

 

年代: 1988

 

DOI:10.1080/00221688809499223

 

出版商: Taylor & Francis Group

 

数据来源: Taylor

 

摘要:

We think that to progress in the mechanism of regular and breaking wave propagation, it is necessary to realize more physical studies from which only coherent theories can be established. This method is applied in the paper. We explain in this way the physical meaning of the regular wave propagation but also the complex mechanism of their breaking shape even over an horizontal or inclined bottom. We present interesting results concerning breaking wave sollicitations on vertical breakwaters and we compare their free surface shapes with the corresponding profiles obtained in our laboratory. We propose here a fundamental study which is defining important computation possibilities of complex phenomena like the regular and breaking wave action on fixed structures.

 

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